Decanter: Jefford on Monday: Bekaa Beauties

Domaine Wardy, Ch les Cèdres 2009

This Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot blend is very dark at present, just hinting at root spice and truffle in its scents, with concentrated, searching, almost thrusting fruits, incense resonance and splendid tannic textures.  If you find the opulence of sweet fruit a little too much in some ambitious Lebanese reds, it’s worth noting that the precise, carefully shaped Wardy style delivers grandeur in slightly drier guise.  94

Domaine Wardy, Cinsault 2013

This was the wine which came closest to proving Lebanese authority Michael Karam’s thesis that Cinsault truly merits solo treatment here.  An enticing aromatic sweetness without either jamminess or excess heat; pomegranate flavours with real finesse, shaped by tannins with a firmness I’ve never before encountered in this large-berried variety.  Balanced and authoritative.  91


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