James Suckling: Gorgona Is One Of The Best Whites of Italy


James Suckling tweeted yesterday that Gorgona is "now one of the best whites of Italy."

You would agree if you had tried this beautiful, rare white from the magical island Gorgona, which is off the Tuscan coastal town of Livorno. It's the very special White made by prisoners who have committed some of Italy's most serious crimes. (background: Decanter)

Owned by Marchesi di Frescobladi and through their partnership with the prison authorities, Gorgona is a blend of Vermentino and Ansonica grapes. The vineyard is managed by the inmates using organic farming techniques and the last vintage produces only 3850 bottles. (Source: Frescobaldi)

The Ansonica grape (Inzolia) is a little-known variety that is superbly suited to the tough climatic conditions of Gorgona, a speck of rock which sits between Italy and Corsica. “It is especially well adapted to maritime climates – high levels of salt spray and strong winds. You also find it on (the nearby islands of) Giglio and Elba,” said Alessandro Torcoli, the editor of a respected wine magazine, Civilta del bere. (www.telegraph.co.uk)

Gorgona 2015, HK$620
It offers delicate aromas of ripe orchard fruit, white flower and a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. The round palate offers dried apricot and citrus before a savory finish. (Wine Enthusiast)

The wine appears a shimmering straw yellow, with subtle greenish highlights. On the nose, scents of hawthorn blossom duet with more decisive notes of citron and citrus, and with well-ripened tropical fruit, while aromas of blueberry and green tea are evident on the finish. The palate is immediately alluring, with an acidity that fashions a cleanly-delineated structure and gives the wine its superb crispness; the acidity, a hint of iodine, and a vein of earthy mineral are all beautifully enveloped by a velvety texture that renders the wine exceptionally well-balanced and pleasurable. 
 
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Author: Evercohol Management
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